喬戈里峰
维基百科，自由的百科全书
| 乔戈里峰 | |
|---|---|
 夏季的乔戈里峰 |
|
| 海拔： | 8,611 米 (28,251 英尺) 世界第二高峰 |
| 位置： | 中国新疆喀喇昆仑与巴控克什米尔吉尔伯特-巴尔蒂地区边界处 |
| 山脉： | 喀喇昆仑山 |
| 坐标: | |
| 首次登顶： | Lacedelli & Compagnoni 1954年7月31日 |
| 最容易的攀登路线： | 岩石/雪/冰 攀爬 |
喬戈里峰，塔吉克语，意为"高大雄伟"。中国正式认可的拉丁名称是Qogir，又稱K2。位於喜马拉雅山系之喀喇昆侖山脈，為世界第二高峰，海拔8611米，僅次於珠穆朗瑪峰。
目录 |
[编辑] 位置
位于东经76.5度，北纬35.9度地處中國新疆叶城縣与巴控克什米尔之界山。
[编辑] 名称
各方势力先后用过Mount Godwin-Austen、Lambha Pahar、Chogori、Kechu 和 Dapsang，但均没有得到广泛应用。现在乔戈里峰的名称来在巴控克什米尔当地民族巴尔蒂人对此山峰的称呼，意思是伟大的山峰。中国以外的登山者更习惯称它为K2。这一名称来源于1856年西方探险队首次考察此地区时，标出了喀喇昆仑山脉自西向东的5座主要山峰，分别命名为K1至K5。乔戈里峰位置为自西向东第二座，得名“K2”。其他的K1, K3, K4和K5, 分别是玛夏布洛姆峰，布洛德峰，加舒尔布鲁木II峰和加舒尔布鲁木I峰。
[编辑] 气候
每年5月至9月，是雨季,从印度洋吹来的西南季风送来暖湿的气流，化为雨水。9月中旬以后至下一年4月中旬，强劲的西风凛冽而至，带来严酷的冬季。
[编辑] 登山路线和困难
There are a number of routes on K2, of somewhat different character, but they all share some key difficulties: First is the extreme high altitude and resulting lack of oxygen: in fact there is only one third as much oxygen available to a climber on the summit of K2 as there is at sea level. Second is the propensity of the mountain to extreme storms of several days' duration, which have resulted in many of the deaths on the peak. Third is the steep, exposed, and committing nature of all routes on the mountain, which makes retreat more difficult, especially during a storm.
[编辑] Abruzzi Spur
The standard route of ascent, used far more than any other route, is the Abruzzi Spur, first attempted by Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi in 1909 (see the history above). This is the southeast ridge of the peak, rising above the Godwin Austen Glacier. The spur proper begins at an altitude of 5,400 m, where Advanced Base Camp is usually placed. The route follows an alternating series of rock ribs, snow/ice fields, and some technical rock climbing on two famous features, "House's Chimney" and the "Black Pyramid." Above the Black Pyramid, dangerously exposed and difficult to navigate slopes lead to the easily visible "Shoulder," and thence to the summit. The last major obstacle is a narrow couloir known as the "Bottleneck," which places climbers dangerously close to a wall of seracs which form an ice cliff to the east of the summit. (It was partly due to the collapse of one of these seracs around 2001 that no climbers summited the peak in 2002 and 2003.)
[编辑] 北坡
Almost opposite from the Abruzzi Spur is the North Ridge, which ascends the Chinese side of the peak. It is rarely climbed, partly due to very difficult access, involving crossing the Shaksgam River, which is a hazardous undertaking.[12]. In contrast to the crowds of climbers and trekkers at the Abruzzi basecamp, usually at most two teams are encamped below the North Ridge. This route, more technically difficult than the Abruzzi, ascends a long, steep, primarily rock ridge to high on the mountain (Camp IV, the "Eagle's Nest", 7,900 m), and then crosses a dangerously slide-prone hanging glacier by a leftward climbing traverse, to reach a snow couloir which accesses the summit.
Besides the original Japanese ascent (see the History section), a notable ascent of the North Ridge was the one in 1990 by Greg Child, Greg Mortimer, and Steve Swenson, which was done alpine-style (though using some fixed ropes already put in place by previous teams).
[编辑] 其他线路
- Northwest Ridge (finishing on North Ridge), first ascent 1991.
- West Ridge, 1981.
- Southwest Pillar or "Magic Line", very technical, 1986.
- South Face, 1986.
- South-southeast spur (finishing on Abruzzi route; a possibly safer alternative to the Abruzzi), 1994.
- Northeast Ridge (long and corniced; finishes on uppermost part of Abruzzi route), 1978.
- Northwest Face, 1990.
[编辑] 比珠穆朗玛峰更危险的登顶
[编辑] 攀登历史
1902年，英国人奥斯卡·艾肯斯坦與Aleister Crowley率領隊伍首次尝试攀登喬戈里峰，經過五次嘗試後，仍無隊員能成功登頂，或許是體能訓練不足所致。
1954年，阿迪托·迪塞奥帶領一支意大利登山隊向峰頂出發，隊中2人里諾·雷斯德里和阿奇里·科帕哥諾尼在7月31日成功登上峰頂。
1982年，日本山-{岳}-協會的一支登山隊首次從乔戈里峰中国境内的北坡成功登顶。
作为中国的第二高峰，在整个20世纪內，未有中国人成功登上乔戈里峰峰顶。
[编辑] 登顶死亡率
2003年9月统计数字：共登顶198人，共死亡53人，总体死亡率26.77%（死亡率＝死亡人数/登顶人数），1990年之前的死亡率41%，1990年以来死亡率为19.7%。
