St. Johns River

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For the river in Maine and New Brunswick, see Saint John River.

St. Johns River, near Blue Spring

Entrance to Blue Spring from the St. Johns River

Map of St. Johns River in 1876

Turpentine Still in 1907

The St. Johns River (commonly misspelled as the St. John's River) is the longest river in the U.S. state of Florida, stretching 310 miles (500 km) from Indian River County to the Atlantic Ocean in Duval County. The St. Johns river is one of the longest rivers in the United States that flows north. It was designated as one of the American Heritage Rivers in 1997.

The elevation change from headwaters to mouth is only about 30 feet, making the St. Johns one of the world's "laziest" rivers. This slow flow makes it difficult for pollutants to be flushed from the waters, which has become a serious problem for the river ecosystem. Still, the river is home to numerous species of plants and animals. It is not uncommon to see dolphins in the river north of Jacksonville, manatees in the springtime when the water warms up, alligators, bald eagles, ospreys, stingrays, and many species of fish, both salt and fresh water.

1 History and names
2 The three basins
3 Fishing
4 Port city of Jacksonville
5 See also
6 External links

[edit] History and names

More than 100,000 years ago, the area of land that now comprises the river was connected to the Atlantic Ocean for most, if not all, of its length, making the river nothing more than an extended system of lagoons and tributaries. As the ocean levels dropped, barrier islands and reef formations effectively walled off the system of lagoons from the ocean, forming the river. This unusual geologic past explains why a river of this size arose with such little drop in elevation from source to mouth (30 feet over 310 miles).

The river basin was the home to the native Timucua tribes, who called it Welaka, or "river of lakes".

In the early 1500s, Spanish explorers called the river Río de Corrientes, or "river of currents".

An expedition of French Huguenots landed at the mouth of the river on May 1, 1562, and thus called it Rivière du Mai, or "river of May". In 1564, a bluff overlooking this site (St. Johns Bluff) became the location of Fort Caroline, the first French colony in North America. This fort was captured by the Spanish from St. Augustine a little over a year after it was founded.

The conquering Spanish renamed the river (and the fort) San Mateo, after Saint Matthew, whose feast day fell the day after their victory over the French.

A Catholic mission named San Juan del Puerto was founded on Fort St. George Island near the river's mouth around 1578, and in time the river came to be known as Río de San Juan. This was translated St. Johns River in English, and this name has remained intact through colonization, war, and the creation of the United States.

During the American Civil War, control of the river was decided at the Battle of Saint John's Bluff, enabling the Union Army to firmly establish control over Jacksonsville.

[edit] The three basins

The upper (southern) basin of the river has indistinct banks, with numerous sloughs and lagoons, often pooling into ponds and lakes. Some of the larger lakes are known today as Lake Hell 'n' Blazes, Sawgrass Lake, Lake Washington, Lake Winder, Lake Poinsett, Ruth Lake, Puzzle Lake, Lake Harney, Lake Jesup and Lake Monroe.

Below Lake Harney, the river is joined by the Econlockhatchee River, and runs between higher bluffs on either side, forming the middle basin. This part of the river runs through what is now the Ocala National Forest. After the English acquisition of Florida from Spain in 1762, English explorer William Bartram was sent by King George III to explore the territory. In his subsequent book Travels, Bartram called the middle basin a "...blessed land where the gods have amassed into one heap all the flowering plants, birds, fish and other wildlife of two continents in order to turn the rushing streams, the silent lake shores and the awe-abiding woodlands of this mysterious land into a true garden of Eden." Here the river forms the broad and shallow Lake George, where marine sharks have been seen in drought years where the normally rain-fed freshwaters of the river cannot fight back the inflowing Atlantic salt water.

The lower (northern) basin begins where the largest tributary of the St. Johns, the Ocklawaha River, joins the flow. (Both rivers are part of the modern Caravelle Ranch Wildlife Management Area.) It passes through the historic city of Palatka, Florida, then through unspoiled riverine bottomland hardwoods, pine flatwoods and sandhill communities, on its way to Jacksonville.

Past Green Cove Springs, the river becomes an estuary, where fresh and salt water meet, and a wide diversity of living species inhabit the islands, inlets, sounds, streams and marshes of the area.

[edit] Fishing

The St. Johns is known for excellent fishing, especially largemouth bass. Its estuarial nature provides both freshwater and saltwater or brackish-water species. Saltwater species include redfish, flouder, tarpon, and the brackish water sea trout ,known locally as the "gator trout". A recent report states that saltwater species have been venturing farther up the river (southwards) in recent years.

Some of the best known fishing occurs in January–March, when the American shad run up the river, and it becomes full of trolling boats. The shad, like the salmon, are anadromous and live most of their life at sea. They are caught primarily for the eggs, shad roe, for the flesh is below average and full of small bones.

[edit] Port city of Jacksonville

Map of Downtown Jacksonville bridges across the St. Johns

Main article: Jacksonville, Florida

As the St. Johns River flows through the city of Jacksonville, Florida it is spanned by seven bridges (see below). The Jacksonville Port Authority (often abbreviated JAXPORT) facilities at the mouth of the St. Johns river make up Florida's second largest port. In fiscal year 2003, JAXPORT handled over 1,500 ships, delivering almost 700,000 containers and over 500,000 cars. Some of the major local commodities include gypsum and oil.

The U.S. Navy maintains the Naval Air Station Jacksonville and Naval Station Mayport near the river's mouth.

St. Johns River crossings in the Jacksonville, Florida area
Upriver from Downtown Jax	Shands Bridge (to be replaced or supplemented) - Buckman Bridge - Timuquana Bridge (never built)
Downtown Jax	Fuller Warren Bridge - Acosta Bridge - Main Street Bridge - Hart Bridge - Mathews Bridge - 20th Street Extension (never built)
Downriver from Downtown Jax	Dames Point Bridge - Florida State Road 113A (never built) - Mayport Ferry