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Ngadi Chuli

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Ngadi Chuli
Elevation 7,871 metres (25,823 feet) Ranked 20th
Location Nepal
Range Himalaya
Prominence 1,020 metres
Coordinates 28°30′12″N, 84°34′03″E
First ascent 1970 by Hiroshi Watanabe and Lhaksa Tsering
Easiest route snow/ice climb

Ngadi Chuli (also known as Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, or Dunapurna) lies in the Gurkha massif a.k.a. the Mansiri (or Manaslu) Himalaya in Nepal. It is flanked by Manaslu in the North and Himalchuli in the South.

Despite its top 20 height, Ngadi Chuli is perhaps only climbed once or twice. The first ascent probably was in 1970 via the East ridge and face by Hiroshi Watanabe and Sherpa Lhaksa Tsering of a Japanese expedition. They left camp V at about 7500 m for a summit attack. Very near the top they were out of sight for about two hours. After reappearing, they suffered a fatal crash down an ice wall. A later Japanese expedition recovered their bodies, but all film had been exposed and no conclusive evidence could be found that they had reached the summit. To be sure the Japanese organized three more expeditions, but these all failed.

The first confirmed ascent, and as of 2005 the last attempt on the mountain, was in 1979 by the Polish climbers Ryszard Gajewski and Maciej Pawlikowski via the West buttress.

[edit] Timeline

  • 1961 First reconnaissance by Japanese climbers.
  • 1969 Third Japanese attempt reached 7350 m.
  • 1970 Probable first ascent, via the East ridge and face.
  • 1978 Three climbers die in an avalanche during the seventh Japanese attempt.
  • 1979 First confirmed ascent by Polish expedition.
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