History of knitting
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[edit] Early origins of knitting
An exact geographical origin for knitting cannot be specified. The craft is believed to have been developed B.C., but this is disputed today. The oldest remnants of seemingly knitted pieces are those that were worn as socks. It is believed that socks and stockings were the first pieces to be produced by techniques similar to knitting as they had to be shaped in order to fit the foot, whereas woven cloth could be used for most other items of clothing. Today it is known that these early socks were worked in Nålebinding, an ancient craft which involves creating fabric from thread by making multiple knots or loops. It is done with a needle (originally of wood or bone). There exist numerous techniques of nalebinding, and some of them look very similar to true knitting. This craft was almost dead by the time archaeological excavations started except in some very remote areas, so no one thought about it. Some of the oldest textiles ever found are today believed to be a kind of nalebinding. It has been speculated that nalebinding or related techniques may have preceded the ability to spin continuous thread, because nalebinding isn't worked with a continuous thread and so doesn't require one. Several other pieces done in now almost extinct techniques have been mistaken for knitting or crochet by archaeologists who had no training in the history of needlework.
The first references to true knitting in Europe were in the early 14th century, though the first knitted socks from Egypt might be slightly older. At these early times, the purl stitch was unknown; in order to produce plain knitting it was necessary to knit in the round and then cut it open. The first reference to purl stitch dates from the mid-16th century, but the knowledge may have slightly preceded that.
[edit] Elizabethan period
During this era the manufacture of stockings was of vast importance to many Britons, who knitted with fine wool and exported their wares. Knitting schools were established as a way of providing an income to the poor, and the stockings that were made sent to the Netherlands, Spain, and Germany.
The fashion of the period, for men to wear short trunks, made the fitted stockings commonly used, a fashion necessity.
Queen Elizabeth the First herself favoured silk stockings, these were finer, softer and much more expensive. Actual examples of stockings that belonged to her still remain, showing the high quality and decorative nature of the items specifically knitted for her.
Men were also the first to knit for an occupation.
[edit] Importance in Scottish history
Knitting was such a vast occupation among those living on the Scottish Isles during the 17th and 18th centuries that the whole family would be involved in making sweaters,accesories, socks, stockings, etc. Fair Isle techniques were used to create elaborate colorful patterns. The sweaters were essential to the fishermen of these Isles, as the natural oils within the wool would provide some element of protection against the harsh weathers while out fishing.
Many elaborate designs were developed, such as cable stitch used on aran sweaters in Ireland.
[edit] Industrial revolution
Rudimentary knitting devices had been invented prior to this period, but were one-off creations. With the advent of the Industrial Revolution wool spinning, and cloth manufacture began to be done in factories. More women would be employed at operating machinery, rather than producing their home spun and knitted items.
The consistency of the factory spun wool was better in that it was more uniform, and the weight could be gauged better as a consequence.
The city of Nottingham, particularly the district known as Lace Market, dominated the production of machine-knitted lace during the Industrial Revolution and the following decades.
[edit] 1939-1945 Knitting for victory
Make do and mend was the title of a booklet produced by the British wartime government department, the Ministry of Information.
Wool was in very short supply, as were so many things. The booklet encouraged women to unpick any old, unwearable, woollen items in order to re-use the wool.
Knitting patterns were issued for people to make items for the Army and Navy to wear in winter, such as balaclavas and gloves. This had the effect of producing the required items, but also gave a positive sense of achievement towards the war effort, by being able to contribute in this way.
[edit] 1950s and 60s high fashion
After the war years, knitting has a huge boost as greater colours and styles of yarn were introduced. Many thousands of patterns fed a hungry market for fashionable designs in bright colours.
The "twinset" was an extremely popular combination for the home knitter. It consisted of a short-sleeved top with a cardigan in the same colour, to be worn together.
Girls were taught to knit in schools, as it was thought to be a useful skill, not just a hobby. Magazines such as "Pins and needles" in the UK, carried patterns of varying difficulty, with not just clothes, but items such as blankets, toys, bags, lace curtains and items that could be sold for profit.
[edit] 1980s decline
The popularity of knitting showed a sharp decline in this period in the Western world. Sales of patterns and yarns slumped, as the craft was increasingly seen as old-fashioned and children were rarely taught to knit in school.
The increased availability and low cost of machine knitted items meant that consumers could have a sweater at the same cost of purchasing the wool and pattern themselves.
[edit] 2000s revival
Following this decline of knitting, manufacturers and designers looked for new ways to stimulate interest and creativity within the craft.
Focus was given to making novelty yarns, which could produce beautiful and stunning results, and to designing patterns which work up quickly on large needles, a phenomenon sometimes called "instant-gratification knitting". There was also a resurgence in popularity of natural-fiber yarns, replacing the acrylic yarns which had long dominated the market (and aided in it's decline in popularity).
Companies like Vogue worked to make their patterns the height of fashion, and Rowan Yarns popularised their patterns with high-quality magazines that bore no resemblance to the old-fashioned style once produced in bulk.
Celebrities including Julia Roberts, Winona Ryder and Cameron Diaz have been seen knitting and have helped to popularise the revival of the craft. A new phrase Guerilla Knitting has been coined for the practice of taking every opportunity to knit in public - often with a degree of organisation such as a mass tube knit-in. [1]
Even men are knitting again as seen by the emergence of male knitting groups.
The resurgence of knitting as a popular activity in the early 21st century intersected with the Internet phenomena of blogging and Internet groups and lists, fueling the development of an international knitting community. By 2006, thousands of knitters had launched and continued to maintain blogs focused on knitting.
Patterns from both print and online knitting magazines have inspired groups centered around knitting up specific patterns, known as knitalongs. One example of this is a knitalong group dedicated to making and discussing Kate Gilbert's wildly popular Clapotis pattern from the online knitting magazine www.knitty.com, with more than twelve hundred members.
Other knitalong groups have been formed with a wider focus, to bring together lace shawl knitters, charitable knitters, aran sweater knitters, sock knitters, and more. On January 14, 2006, influential knit blogger Stephanie Pearl-McPhee, otherwise known as Yarn Harlot, challenged the knitting blogosphere to participate in the 2006 Knitting Olympics. To participate, a knitter committed to casting on a challenging project during the opening ceremonies of the 2006 Winter Olympics in Torino, and to have that project finished by the time the Olympic flame was extinguished 16 days later. By the first day of the Olympics, almost four thousand knitters [sometimes referred to as "knathletes" or "knitletes"] had signed up for the challenge and many more participated without officially signing up. To put this in perspective, over 2400 athletes participated in the 2006 Torino Olympics.
Knitting podcasts, such as Cast On, Knit Cast, and Math4Knitters have also emerged, with much cross-pollination of ideas from blogs, 'zines, and knitting books. Traditional designs and techniques that had been preserved by a relatively small number of hand-knitters during the years when the production of handknits gave way to mass-produced machine-knit garments are now finding a wider audience as well.
[edit] Bibliography
- Macdonald, Anne L., No Idle Hands: The Social History of American Knitting, 1988. ISBN 0-345-33906-1
- Rutt, Richard, A History of Hand Knitting, 1987. ISBN 0-934026-35-1
