User:Zappernapper/RatInfo
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[edit] Keeping rats as pets
Rats make excellent pets for urbanites with small apartments, as they bond with humans and offer much in the way of affection and entertaining activity, but require little space indoors (and don't need to be taken outside at all). They are expensive to feed correctly compared to other small pets, as they do have very specific nutritional needs (see the Food section, below). Their veterinary care can also be expensive.
Although rats are generally nocturnal, many pet rat owners have found their fancy rats to be crepuscular instead: most active for a few hours around dawn and dusk, and then napping for a few hours at a stretch between these times.
While there is a mild social taboo against rats, they have remained popular as pets, and there is a devoted community of rat owners who believe that the low maintenance, sociability, and intelligence of rats make them excellent companion animals.
[edit] Pros and Cons
Pros to keeping a rat: They are very intelligent, clean, gregarious, low-maintenance, affectionate, and don't require much space. A tame rat is very unlikely to bite.
Cons to keeping a rat: They may chew items you didn't want chewed (the females are much more prone to chewing than males), they need lots of attention, both males and females 'scent mark' their property (which can include you!) and they reproduce quickly if males and females are kept together. Spaying and neutering can fix this problem, but this is a risky procedure for small mammals.
[edit] Solo rats
Rats are social animals, and are best kept in pairs or groups. Rats can be kept in same-sex groups to avoid undesired reproduction. Rats need peer stimulation to express natural, healthy behavior patterns. Solitary rats may become depressed and nervous, and may also develop behavioral problems.
Some people believe that a rat kept by itself will be more devoted to its human owners than a rat who has rat companions. However, behavioral research disproves this assumption conclusively, and major fancy rat organizations believe that it is cruel to keep a rat in a cage alone. Regular, intensive attention and stimulation from humans will lessen the negative effects of keeping solitary rats, however there is no substitute for peer company. [1].
[edit] Housing
Rats can be kept in cages which are available in pet stores. However, cages with thin bars (thick wire) are strongly preferred, as rats need to climb for proper exercise and mental stimulation. Rats enjoy climbing the cage walls (the cage should have horizontal and vertical bars) and use their noses to sample the scents of the outside world since scent is very important to rats.
Rats kept in glass terrariums cannot climb, become lethargic and sometimes shown signs of psychological distress; also, the lack of air renewal makes rats more likely to get pulmonary problems.
Rats can be housed in cages with either solid or wire shelves. The base floor should be solid for the rat's comfort. Some people believe that an infection known as bumblefoot is caused by wire shelves. Most now believe this is incorrect, and insanitary conditions (such as puddles of urine on solid shelves) and genetic predisposition are the major causes of bumblefoot. Solid flooring may be easier to clean (though they must be wiped down very frequently), a factor crucial to maintaining optimum respiratory and overall health.[2]. Rats must be kept in enclosures that they cannot chew through, so wood and/or plastic cages are not appropriate.
Regular cleaning of a rat's home is crucial for the pet's health. The home must be cleaned at least once a week by replacing the soiled bedding where necessary. It is also important that the cage contain a hiding place, where the animal can rest during the day. The hiding houses should be large enough to accommodate every rat living in one cage, and should be closed on three sides. It is possible to purchase such a hiding place at a pet store, and some houses add features such as a removable roof that helps take away collected food (especially perishable items). However, a small cardboard box will work - though it will need to be replaced often.
[edit] Size
Despite a rat's modest size, appropriate housings should have a floor space of at least 24 by 12 inches (about 60×30cm), and be at least 24 inches (60cm) in height. If affordable, larger cages with multiple levels are preferable. A bigger, more interesting home will lengthen the rat's lifespan and provide both the rat and the owner with more entertainment. A guideline of at least 2 cubic feet per rat is recommended as a minimum.
[edit] Position
The perfect place for the rat's home is a well-lit room of constant, moderate temperature (18 to 26°C, 64 to 80°F). A cage in direct sunlight may cause dangerous overheating. When wire cages are used, it is especially important to avoid air drafts. Though they cannot see very far, rats become more relaxed and curious when positioned somewhat above the ground (at least 65 cm (2 feet)), from where they can perceive their surroundings.
[edit] Litter
Various types of litter can be used to cover the base of the cage; most rat societies advocate the use of a good recycled paper or cardboard based litter, hemp or shredded paper. Softwood shavings like pine and cedar should be avoided, as the phenols given off by this type of wood can cause serious respiratory and/or liver damage in rats. Aspen shavings are the most readily and inexpensive shavings safe for use with rats. Many rat owners also use old t-shirts for rags in the cage. Shredded paper towels make an excellent nesting material.
Rats can be litter trained, which can improve the cleanliness of their homes. If the rats' droppings are placed in a tray regularly, eventually the rat should realise what the litter tray is for. Persuading rats to urinate in one place is much more difficult. Rats tend to choose one corner to urinate in most frequently, so placing a litter pan in that corner often helps. Also, a litter should be low in dust and non-toxic. Unscented clay cat litter, corn cob, alfalfa pellets are all used.
[edit] Chew toys
Like all rodents, their teeth grow continuously. Rats with healthy, properly aligned teeth will grind them together and maintain a proper length even if they are never allowed to chew on anything. However, chewing is both entertaining and psychologically soothing for them, and in the absence of appropriate chew toys they might start chewing on inappropriate items (like furniture).
Some cheap and effective chew toys for rats are: branches or pieces of non-toxic organic wood (maple, oak, apple...), flavored nylon chew toys for dogs or flavored raw hide and pig's ears, cardboard, and chicken or steak bones. They enjoy a variety of textures, ranging from plants to the buttons on a remote control, so variety is key. Unlike with dogs or cats, a rat won't choke on bones because they slowly wear away the bone by gnawing on it. A dog or cat may try to crush the bone with their teeth, which causes the dangerous splintering.
[edit] Exercise and entertainment
Like all pets, rats need exercise and entertainment to maintain their physical and mental health. In addition to having toys and exercise equipment, they should be taken out of their cage and played with daily.
Exercise wheels with spokes or other holes, as are sometimes used with hamsters, are dangerous to rats as tails can get trapped in the spinning mechanism and injured. Some rats show no interest in exercise wheels, while others use them very frequently. Females are more likely to use a wheel than a male, especially if it's introduced at a young age. It is a common misconception that rats are too clever to enjoy wheels. While they like them, they would probably rather escape to explore.
Rats enjoy climbing, and prefer a more vertical cage to horizontal. They will also keep themselves active by moving around objects in their cage, shredding soft material to use for bedding, and gnawing on harder materials.
A pet rat should be handled often; for at least several minutes every day. They enjoy this social interaction, and will come to their cage door in anticipation of being picked up. A rat should never be picked up by its tail, as this can cause an especially painful injury called "degloving" where the skin is ripped off the bone. Rats also enjoy being out of their enclosures and having the opportunity to explore. However, they must be kept away from holes in the wall or in large pieces of furniture, because they sometimes seek out the dark and burrow-like confines of those areas and it can be difficult to get them to come out again. They also enjoy chewing wires and aquarium tubing (or any tubing) can be slipped over them to prevent this. It's also a good idea to check on electrical cords, or have them out of reach. Many rats enjoy riding on their owner's shoulder around the house. During such adventures however, it should be kept in mind that they can be frightened by new situations and especially loud noises.
Training any animal takes an investment of time and energy. All rats have the ability to learn to recognize their name and come when called. This is especially helpful if your pet is ever lost in the house.
It is relatively easy to train a rat to use a litter tray or pan, and some people have even housebroken their pet rats and let them run free in a rat-proofed room. The full extent of a rat's ability to be trained through patience and the use of treats as rewards can be seen in the popularity of rat agility classes at many rat shows.
[edit] Food and drink
Rats drink a great deal and should always have fresh water available. Appropriate drinking devices such as gravity drip-feed bottles can be found in stores. Both water and vegetables must be fresh and have to be changed frequently, usually once a day. It is usually advised that water not be given in open jars, since it is likely to get polluted or spilled.
Pet stores can provide basic food for rats that provides their nutritional needs, but rats also enjoy (and benefit from) fresh vegetables and fruits, and small amounts of cooked chicken or beef (cooled to a safe temperature, without spices or sauces). Doggie biscuits are also a good option.
The diet should optimally not consist of more than 20% animal protein. Studies have shown that high protein intake shortens their lifespan and increases the likelihood of kidney trouble. A belief is that some rats may develop "protein sores" at levels over 25%, however this correlation is not scientifically proven. It is also possible that a large consumption of certain types of proteins, such as in seeds or dairy, can induce allergic reactions in some rats.
Pet foods made for hamsters, mice or other rodents are not suitable for rats. Certain foods like raw beans and sweets/candies are not recommended. Many household plants, such as tomato leaves, are poisonous and especially dangerous to rats, since rats cannot vomit. As with most other animals, rats are often unable to determine which foods are bad for them and will usually eat anything that is offered, or that they can find like house plant leaves that have fallen on the floor. In fact, pet rats have been known to chew on a variety of random household items, including condoms, packing peanuts, leather boots, and lighters. A common human food currently under investigation are grapes and raisins which according to cases reported to the ASPCA Antox database program have in larger quantities been linked to lethal renal (kidney) failure in dogs. [citation needed]
Many pet stores now stock commercial rat mixes and lab blocks specifically designed to cater to the dietary needs of rats, as most ordinary rodent mixes usually contain too high a level of fatty seeds and not enough protein. Most other kinds of seeds, kernels, and nuts can be given. Care should be taken to limit the amount of fat contained within the diet. Sunflower seeds, nuts, and sesame seeds are nutritious, but should be considered as a treat rather than as basic food. It is becoming common practice among many rat breeders to make up their own mixes which often contain a balanced blend of cereals, whole grains, and puppy biscuits, amongst other ingredients.
Rat foods come in two basic types: mixes and blocks or nuggets. When feeding mixes, it is important not to refill to bowl until all the food has been eaten to prevent the rat from just "picking out the best bits". "Stashing" or hiding food for later is natural behaviour for rats, so care should be taken that not only is the food bowl empty, but their secret stashes are too. Blocks or nuggets circumvent these problems, as the rat cannot be picky about what he eats. However, rats can get bored with an unchanging diet, and a diet of blocks or nuggets may not provide enough variety.
[edit] Young Rats
Young rats benefit from having extra protein in their diet, this can be provided with a bird rearing, egg based food, such as EMP or Cédé etc. mixed with Lactol (a puppy/kitten milk). Rat kittens also enjoy soya milk, which is healthier than cows' milk, as it is not as fatty.
[edit] Homemade rat food
For optimum health, some rat fanciers recommend that rats be fed a homemade mix. This can be varied to provide interest for the rats and to incorporate health needs of young, old or sick rats.
The mixes are made from a base of roughly 50% low protein dog food or rat food with added dog biscuits, dried pasta and human breakfast cereals. Fresh foods such as raw or cooked vegetables should be added daily so as to comprise roughly 20% of the diet. Rabbit and other small animal food is not recommended, as rats cannot properly digest all of the grasses contained in those types.
Another popular homemade diet is made from 40% rabbit food, 10% uncooked pasta, 10% doggy kibble, 40% human breakfast cereals (low sugar) also other items such as low fat crackers, rice-cakes and crumbled dog biscuits can be added. This gives the rat the required amount of proteins/carbohydrates etc.
Copper levels in a good rat diet should be about 15mg/kg.
In controlled environs, rat food is sometimes referred to as 'rat chow' in the context of a scientific experiment.
[edit] Treats
Favourite treats include yogurt, or yogurt drops and sunflower seeds, though these should be given sparingly as they are all high in fat. For a healthier alternative, rats often enjoy peas (frozen or cooked) and sweetcorn as much as fattier treats. Giving them kitchen scraps is also a good way to find out what your particular rats enjoy. Chocolate may be given, in small quantities as it is very high in fat, but it has been found that rats are not affected by the chemicals in chocolate that are poisonous to dogs. Dehydrated banana chips also make an appetizing treat. Much in the same way pet rats can be taught name recognition, you can train your rat to expect a treat in response to a code word.
